To love a swamp, however, is to love what is muted and marginal,

what exists in the shadows,

what shoulders its way out of mud

and scurries along the damp edges of what is most commonly praised.

And sometimes its invisibility is a blessing.

Swamps and bogs are places of transition and wild growth,

breeding grounds,

experimental labs where organisms and ideas have the luxury of being out of the spotlight,

where the imagination can mutate and mate,

send tendrils into and out of the water.

~ Barbara Hurd, Stirring the Mud: On Swamps, Bogs, and Human Imagination

Scenic overlook on the road to Palmetto.

We'd been planning this - the next of our adventures in state parks of Texas - since late summer. For one reason or another we were delayed. But with day permits in hand (for the second time) we packed our gear, printed maps, and headed south.

I had a vague memory of visiting Palmetto State Park* in my childhood (Mom wanted to see the palmettos) and made a short scouting trip when traveling to the coast last year. Lockhart State Park** was a mystery to me. We would soon find out a little more about each park, hear the birds, visit with staff and other visitors, take a few photos, travel a trail or two, and marvel at the extraordinary work of the Civilian Conservation Corps*** (hereinafter CCC) in each park.

DISCLAIMER: These comments are by no means dispositive of the offerings at these parks. We are make short day trips with limited goals. Because we are traveling with an aging dog (and we recognize our own limitations in time and energy) we avoid difficult trails. We don't camp or fish or swim or boat (although we do make note for future visits) so we cannot comment on those facilities.

I. PALMETTO STATE PARK

The San Marcos River snakes it's way through Palmetto State Park. The look of it on the map, the odd shape of the park itself, and the mention of "swamps" and snakes in the park information is enough to put us a bit on alert. We stopped and checked in at the headquarters (that seems weirdly separated from the park proper) in the small community of Ottine. We picked up maps (larger than those printed at home) of the park and trails. I also grabbed a handout about the "Ottine Swamp Thing" and we headed to some of the gems of CCC construction.

Here is a bit of what we saw at Palmetto:

Named for these chest high palms - Palmetto State Park is weird and wonderful.

Near the oxbow lake and the playground is an artesian well and pond.

This small path was made by leaf-cutter ants that were running up and down the path. We met a lovely family from New Zealand and chatted about weather and park options.

Note the ant in the center. Check out the ant legs sticking out from under the leave (at the arrow).

The refectory - built by the CCC from stone and timber. It's lovely.

Standing in the refectory. I am always amazed at these 90 year old structures.

San Marcos River from the Refectory porch.

You have to love a park with a little library!

We took the Palmetto Interpretive Trail. All the trails we tried were well maintained and marked.

We took the Palmetto Interpretive Trail as we wanted to see the CCC Water Tower.

We were definitely in the swamp, however we saw no swamp creatures.

This is a short trail and quickly saw the water tower through the trees.

As we got closer we realized that we must have driven past it on our way to the Refectory.

It's impressive.

Water from the tower feeding a small pool.

It is even more impressive when you get to review its design. [I told you the signage was good here.]

One more photo demonstrating why one needs to stay on the marked path.

You hear many birds and see a great deal of movement, but spotting birds can be challenging. Here a Downy Woodpecker.

We might walk this trail next time - but not in the dark.

LOCKHART STATE PARK:

When I reviewd map of the park I noticed 3 number points of interest close together. That would be the most efficient spot for us to seek out depending on how our time was holding out. The Recreation Hall/Refectory, Water Tower, and Old #1 Tee Box were alll together. "Tee Box," I thought - "what's a Tee Box. Wait? Like a golf course tee box?" Sure enough, it is a now abandoned tee box for the first hole of the golf course. Oh, didn't I mention the golf course?

Whatever, I knew there had to be a story here. Yes, Lockhart State Park is the only state park that still has a for-real 9-hole golf course (not a miniature golf course). When I looked at the map again I saw them - the oddly shaped holes were indeed marked and numbered. Who knew?

We were not in the park for golf (although many folks were). Here is where we wandered and what we saw in this unique park - loaded with CCC structures (in addition to the historic golf course built by the Works Progress Administration, also a New Deal program).

Welcome.

Petrified palm wood outside the office.

Golf course - really. Would I lie to you? This is Hole # 9 and #1 is just to the left.

We were heading uphill and made our first crossing on the creek over a beautiful small bridge. A small CCC dam was upstream of the bridge.

Sturdy little bridge just across the Clear Fork Creek. We stopped to take a look at the dam and the bridge.

The dam just upstream of the bridge.

Clear Fork Creek just below the bridge.

Old Hole # 1 Tee Box

We drove up the hill to 3 points of interest. The Tee Box for Hole #1 is way the heck up at the top of the hill and overlooks, yes, the golf course (in the distance). I can see why this Tee Box was abandoned. I've posted a link for more information for you golfers.***** Apparently this was the "highest Tee Box in Texas" until changed in the 1970s when the course layout was changed.

The refectory was in use so I just snapped a photo of this amazing siding and then walked around.

A side view of the Refectory/Recreation Hall/former Pro Shop also showing the "natural" board siding.

This photo is on one of the sign at the Refectory. It shows the siding appears to be original.

The Water Tower

The Water Tower info from the interpretive sign.

Behind the refectory are picnic tables and stairs leading down to the CCC trail. We knew better.

This would be a great place for a party, but you would need to drive carefully (narrow road, no guardrails) and remember this facility is at the edge of a cliff.

Now it was time for a hike. The park road weirdly winds to get around the golf course and through the camping areas. We ended up in the corner of the park on the Creekview Trail. And guess what we found - another dam, and morel CCC structures with detailed signage along this short and easy trail that hugged one bank of Clear Fork Creek and literally took us to the fence line.

It's a great short hike with more than just the latrine ruins. READ THE SIGNS!

This is just a commercial break reminding people to be responsible pet owners.

It is a water fountain cleverly designed with different steps for different sized people.

There's your design,

Was this a dam? Was it damaged or designed to just slow the current?

Whatever. I love the music of these little waterfalls.

I was not tempted to try and cross it, but I might attempt to walk on it from the other side...another day.

Now it was time to take the trail. We walked along, read the signs and checked out the remains of more examples of the work of the CCC.

Z was a little slow on this day, but enjoyed all the smells. This is not a comment on the latrine ruins in the area.

These lined holes make sense when you realize this is the old picnic area. This is an in-ground trash can.

Design of in-ground trash cans.

We only saw a few roots that could be a trip hazard.

A hazard maybe, but look at how lovely.

Part of the old picnic area. Of course we climbed the stairs (still sturdy, I might add).

I wonder if this bit is dropping due to creek flooding undermining the foundation?

We saw the chain, but had to hunt for the retaining wall - just slightly upstream.

You can just see the retaining wall here.

The sign was correct. We came to the fence line and turned back.

This path takes you up the hill and is considered a "challenging" trail. We didn't take it.

It did sprinkle on us a little, but nothing to worry about.

On our way back out of the park we though we'd look for the remains of the old swimming pool. We found what was probably the old bath house and some of the retaining walls. When you looked around the edge of the wall another dam was controling the creek - up from the bridge and dam we saw initially.