Our Journey to the Round Towers

I am circling around God,

around the ancient tower,

and I have been circling for a thousand years,

and I still don't know if I am a falcon,

or a storm,

or a great song.

~ Rainer Maria Rilke

Once some 120 round towers graced monastic sites in Ireland. Built between the 9th and 12th centuries their use is still debated. The word for round tower in Irish is Cloigtheach (house of the bell). The bell, essential for and treasure of a settlement, would be kept inside. So while the very name indicates the towers are "bell towers," it is thought there was also an element of defensive use (watchtower and/or refuge).

But now most are now largely in ruins. Only 18 to 20 are "complete" or almost complete. Only two can be climbed - St. Canice's in Kilkenny and St. Brigid's in Kildare.

This type of structure has also been used in more modern times for monuments in Ireland and elsewhere.

There is something strange and wonderful about round towers and they became an important part of this pilgrimage to Ireland - a sacred journey - our turas naofa.

Our journey began in Dublin where we stayed near Glasnevin Cemetery and encountered O'Connell's Tower. We would then join a music tour* which would include visits to two towers and a stop in Kilkenny - allowing us an attempt to climb St. Canice's round tower. And finally, we had had obligations in Clare and Galway which allowed us to travel to Kilmacduagh, a lovely monastic site near Gort where a unique tower stands slightly askew (I identify with that).

This seems as good a spot as any to stash the photographs (some old and some new) and share a few tales so that we can return and remember.

We will return and remember.

I. O'Connell Tower, Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin

The striking O'Connell "modern" round tower was built in 1855 as a monument to and as part of the crypt of Daniel O'Connell, Irish political leader and activist. Located in Glasnevin Cemetery, this tower stands an imposing 55 meters (185 feet) near the cemetery museum.

We arrived at the cemetery via a passage from the National Botanical Garden in a light rain that quickly turned into a bit of a storm. By the time we reached the tower we were soaked and took refuge in the museum coffee shop. The photos do not show it or the surrounding cemetery at its best, but do capture the somber atmosphere experienced while noting the imposing crosses, angels, and other memorials.

This is one of those places that deserves another (hopefully drier) visit - to take the museum's tour and (perhaps) climb the tower.

Crosses and Yew trees frame the tower.

II. Glendalough round tower(s), Glendalough, Wicklow

We found three round towers at Glendalough. The first was in a Lego miniature in the visitor center. [I must say I was taken in by the diorama - especially the garden (posted below).]

The round tower in the lego diorama - amazing.

It's a short walk from the visitor's center to the cathedral yard containing the cemetery, St Kevin's Church (topped by a small round bell tower), and the larger round tower at the corner of the site. At first we only saw the top of the round tower looming in the distance as we approached the site.

It loomed larger and larger as we followed the path to the monastic site.

This tower is 30.5 meters (100 ft) high.

We were allowed inside St. Kevin's Church - a rare opportunity and almost indescribable experience. [More in the "music" post.]

We explored. Ah, but there's never enough time. We could wander for days to the two lakes and other ancient ruins. But for today we had to be satisfied by the echo of a violin and voices raised in song.

Towers align.

A view of the St. Kevin's Church from near the round tower.

Just before we left the churchyard, BH asked if I knew Dona Nobis Pacem and we sang it together facing into entrance to St. Kevin's Church.

Grant us peace.

One last look at the tower.

Herb Robert in the churchyard wall!

III. St. Canice's Cathedral round tower, Kilkenny

When we received our itinerary "stop for lunch in Kilkenny" appeared on day five - the halfway point of the tour segment of our journey. I sighed and remembered my last trip to Kilkenny...the music and art...but mostly the laughter.

"Lunch. Lunch is long enough to walk up the road to St. Canice's Cathedral and climb the round tower," I thought.

Well, that would be one lunch sorted. We'd be visiting the cathedral and climbing (if the weather allowed).

Tickets were purchased online, fingers were crossed for dry weather, loins were girded, and hopes were high.

The day dawned with damp, but not rainy weather. The schedule shifted and shifted again. We would have less than an hour to cross the city center, climb up and down the 7 ladders (six wooden - one metal and the four irregular stone steps at the top), before the return trip back to the bus.

St. Canice's round tower is approximately 30 meters high (98 feet - give or take, so approximately nine stories), I'd missed a climb with the children in 1997 (too wet), but accomplished the feat in 2019 with the encouragement of DH.

These were very different circumstances, but I was determined. And this time my intrepid devil-dare sister would be along.

While we had been pushing ourselves to train (in a way) through many long and strenuous walks and stair-climbing....climbing...climbing, neither one of us was completely confident we would make the top...until we did.

Our race against the clock had allowed no stop to enjoy the choir singing "Shallow" in front of the city hall or even to take a look inside the cathedral, a beautiful and fascinating place.

[The photos here are dated. Included are shots from 2019 when we had more time to look around and document) Some photos were taken by BH who shared this adventure in 2023. I only had time for a couple of shots outside (pre-climb) and from the top.]

St. Canice's Cathedral is a stunner. Note the line outside the round tower. Had there been a line this year, we would never have been able to complete the climb in the time allowed. (Photo from 2019)

(2019)

BH on the iron ladder up to the door of the tower. (2023)

In my memory the climb was multiple flights of stairs. In reality - ladders. (2019)

(2019)

(2019)

BH on one of the ladders. (2023)

Note: These last 4 steps have no railing (2019).

The opening to the roof as seen from above. (2019)

The view from the top in 2023. I have a very similar shot from 2019.

All of the windows are "covered" for safety (2019).

The official safety warning, of sorts.

It should be noted that St. Canice's Cathedral, Church of Ireland, is on a hill and one must climb about 25 steps just to access the churchyard.

We were moving fast, but did note Herb Robert growing on the wall surrounding the cathedral complex - a good sign.

Herb Robert - our charm seen almost everywhere we went.

On our sprint back to the bus we watched our time tick away as we dodged traffic and the crowds. But we still noted views in Kilkenny that reminded us we would need to return with days, not minutes to spend, although we might skip the climb on our next trip..

It was a crowded day in Kilkenny town. Kilkenny Castle provides the perfect backdrop to the festival.

I'm quite fond of these whiskey jugs.

An interesting floral shop, but no time to stop.

IV. Ardmore round tower, Waterford County

Our visit to St. Declan's monastic site, wherein sits the 12th century round tower, was short. It was more than a drive-by, but only long enough to put it on the list of places to investigate in the future. The site is on a hill and is extensive.The tower looks down on an oratory, the churchyard, the ruins of the cathedral, and then out over the town of Ardmore and the Muir Cheilteach (Celtic Sea).

Our first views of the tower and monastic site were somewhat shielded by trees.

St. Declan's Oratory, locally know as "The Beannachan" (The Blessing), is reputed to have been built above the grave of St. Declan.

The graves face east toward the Muir Cheilteach (Celtic Sea).

The construction of this tower is different from any others I've seen. It has four "belts" of stone rings encircling the tower.

Note the circles/rings of stone.

The cathedral ruins to the left.

Carved panels on the cathedral ruins. I see Adam and Eve in the center panel, but there's not enough detail for more. Ardmore has great online presence so I'll research further.

Sacred to the memory of Macdaeen Mary McKenna (see below). This monument reminded me of the words of a John Spillane song, "When angels with wings come to collect you and carry you over the stormy seas...."

It's always hard to pass up a little library.

We passed a tiny library and stopped at Quinn's Foodstore at the foot of Tower Hill where I found chocolate, fudge, and Bernadette, the clerk. She complemented my choice of candy and asked how I knew what to choose. By the end of our conversation, I was ready to stay in Ardmore, but the bus was headed on to Waterford...<sigh>... another time.

V. Kilmacduagh round tower, near Gort, Galway

Kilmacduagh is a monastic site associated with St. Colman and he is purported to be buried near the round tower in a grave surrounded by Yew trees. Also called Seven Churches, there are a number of ruins on the property.

The round tower at this site is considered the tallest pre-modern structure in Ireland at 112 feet (32.5 meters) in height (I have seen it reported lower and higher). It is also known for its noticeable lean (and is sometimes called "the leaning tower of Ireland").

As the tradition holds (and I have it on good authority from the keeper of the keys to the site), that if one lies down on the saint's grave (three times in succession) one will be thereafter free from back problems.

[Full disclosure - I stayed across the road for a few days in 2017 and did more research then.]

We headed to Kilmacduagh at the end of the day of visiting Coole Park environs. It's a great place for hikers, naturalists, and history buffs.

At one time this must have been a bustling place.

It's a quick climb from the road to the churchyard.

Too dark and too many tower photos, but I love the sky in this one.

The tower looks good from here.

The church lies in ruins, but this is an active cemetery.

There are no straight lines so I walked around the tower to try and recognize the actual "lean."

The door to the round tower is higher than that seen on other towers.

The crushed grass on the path seemed to indicate St. Colman's grave (surrounded by the Yew trees on the right) is visited regularly.

Looking up.

Looking out.

Looking "way" out.

Everything here seems to lean.

Some of the ruins viewed from the churchyard.

During the spring and summer there are cattle grazing in the fields.

A road leads to some of the more distant ruins.

Our road led back to Ennis, to Dublin, and then home, but we will be back.

NOTES:

* Inishfree Irish Music Tours - BH and I have both traveled with Inishfree more than once. These unique tours introduce travelers to parts of Ireland many travelers never see as well as providing wonderful guides, safe travel, and great accommodation. I've traveled with them somewhat "last minute" on two occasions and I had little to do other than book my flight...a great and trusted escape when one was needed.

https://www.inishfreetours.com/

** Round towers generally

Cloigthithe is plural. Cloigtheach is singular.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irish_round_tower

https://sacredsites.com/europe/ireland/tower_of_cashel.html

https://kildare-nationalist.ie/2023/08/07/kildares-round-tower-re-opens/

https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/heritage/round-towers-and-tall-tales-1.1847765

O'Connell Tower

https://www.dctrust.ie/about-us/oconnell-tower.html (cut and paste link)

https://domavue.com/glasnevin-cemetery/ (3-D view of bottom and top of O'Connell crypt)

St. Canice's Church

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_(Lady_Gaga_and_Bradley_Cooper_song)/