A river seems a magic thing.
A magic, moving, living part of the very earth itself.
~Laura Gilpin
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| The Danube |
We were on our way back to Munich for flights the following day and decided to visit Regensburg,* a city along the banks of the Danube. We were not disappointed.**
How did we decide on Regensburg? Luck? Hunch?
Normally when traveling I research options for "side trips" long before we get on the plane. I prepare schedules and bring files of maps and notes. But because I did not plan this trip (it was more a "get on the plane, Mom" thing) I spent little time running down Google, Trip Advisor, Atlas Obscura, and other rabbit trails in advance.
Five days earlier, on our way to Hohenberg (where we stayed for the family Christmas celebration) we somehow were diverted by the GPS around Regensburg so the name was familiar. We already had been to some of the other nearby cities. We didn't enjoy the struggle with parking in Munich. We had a recommendation for a great restaurant. And a little research indicated we needed to stop and spend some time in this UNESCO World Heritage city.
We arrived in town - driving past a compelling mural - and easily located parking. We found the cobbled streets of the old town and after a quick lunch started our tour with the imposing St. Peter's Church (the cathedral with amazing lacy spires) before wandering the banks of the Danube (boats, birds, art, and people) and walking across the river on the Stone Bridge.
The narrow streets and walkways decorated with swags of greenery. Unusual works of public art decorated the streets and bridges. Did I mention the birds? Ah, there were birds along the river and in the parks!
Looking for a unique shopping experience? Love food trucks? Need traditional Bavarian clothing? Love antiques? Regensburg is the place.
One surprise downtown was the Regensburg Tändlerei*** - a number of magical shops packed with souvenirs, antiques, dolls, ceramics, and Christmas ornaments. The owner was a retired potter (and collector) she said. The shops were extraordinary. I could have stayed for days.
There were so many things we did not have time to see. A few hours was not enough. A return trip to Regenburg is on my list.
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| Regensburg Cathedral **** |
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And inside the cathedral the Christmas decorations were simple and beautiful.
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| All the trees were decorated with white lights and straw ornaments. |
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| We saw stairs going down and found ourselves in a crypt***** with what appeared to be portion of old columns as well as a number of the resting places of church hierarchy. |
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| One entry and windows. |
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| A massive door. |
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| Another entry. |
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| Check out these gargoyles/downspouts. |
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| Creatures. It would be interesting to be here in the rain. |
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| One can get a good shot of the cathedral from the statue of Ludwig II |
of Bavaria ******* We have encountered him many times before.
From the cathedral to the river we passed what appeared to be a large crypt (?) and part of the old Roman gate.
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| Looks to me like that first word is "CRYPTA" - No research yet. |
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| Part of the city wall/gate from Roman occupation. |
Along the River:
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| I loved this boat - the Helga |
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| Something to use to secure the boat. |
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| Stylized boat work of art on the riverside. |
The Old Stone Bridge:
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| I was stalking these gulls, but captured a decent photo of the bridge - full of pedestrians. |
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The only remaining tower (and gate) on the south side of the Stone Bridge.
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| The Salt Store alongside the gate tower. |
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| Closer view of the Salt Store. |
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| The best view of the cathedral is from the far side of the bridge. |
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| A view from the bridge. |
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| The bridge apparently causes some rough currents. |
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| A very odd statue on the bridge - a naked man sitting atop a pyramid. It's the |
Bruckmandl Statue representing the legendary builder of the Stone Bridge.
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| The setting sun was a message - we had to move along. |
BIRDS!
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| Black-headed Gull - one of many along the river. |
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| Feral Pigeons |
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| A fellow in the park feeding the creatures, including a number of mallards. |
The narrow streets of city center:
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| I'll bet the streets were magical at night with the holiday lights on. |
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| The day was not too busy. |
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| Each street was decorated a little differently. |
The Regensburg Taendlerei***
Kitchen wares and more
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| A scene perfect for a doll house. |
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| Old Santa candy container |
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| Bakeri |
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| Snow Babies |
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| Pottery |
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| Antique jewelry and more |
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| A grouping of dolls |
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| More dolls |
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| I love ornaments in the original box. |
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| Parts of the shops were full to overflowing. |
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| Other parts were orderly. |
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| More dolls |
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| And more dolls |
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| Some religious items |
So there you go -- a little bit of Regensburg. My gift to you.
NOTES:* Regensburg - https://www.britannica.com/place/Regensburg
See also -https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_Bridge_(Regensburg)
** Okay. I was disappointed by my meal from the "healthy" restaurant where we ate after the recommended Italian spot could not accommodate us. We might have guessed about the place since there were few people dining there. Ah, well.
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| Even the lemonade was "meh." |
***http://www.regensburger-taendlerei.de/start_%20engl.htm
**** https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regensburg_Cathedral
https://www.spottinghistory.com/view/5649/regensburg-cathedral/
***** YC asked if I had "seen the bones." Apparently there was a glass case showing the remains of a cleric. I did not really explore or stay long in the crypt.
****** https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwig_II_of_Bavaria
A tunnel and a bridge - you know they are leading you to something special:
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| It was a long tunnel. |
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Crossing the Danube with the city disclosed beyond - note the cathedral spires.
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| The welcoming mural - kind of goofy, kind of brilliant. Birds are alway good. |
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| Details of the mural |
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